"It's the very fact that it's finite that makes traveling special. You could move to any one of those destinations you loved in small doses, and it wouldn't be the spellbinding, life-altering seven days you spent there as a guest, letting a place into your heart fully, letting it change you."
― Emily Henry
Last month Sue and I returned to her cabin at Paya Lake in the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest. A lovely northwoods nature getaway with great opportunities for hiking and exploration, only an hour away from Lake Michigan and the Upper Peninsula. Excursions would include missions for birds, wildflowers, waterfalls, and tiger beetles. We packed a lot activities into the week, but it was still a very paced and relaxing mini-vacation. To be honest, I probably don't take enough of them.
The breathtaking view from the cabin overlooking Paya Lake reminds me of the times I spent at Spider Lake and Ole Lake in Sawyer County. Since my brother passed away in 1997, I haven't returned to those cabins and lakes, as they still feel haunted by his memory. Tony was an avid Muskie fisherman who loved the Northwoods, especially in the fall when the big ones came out. For me this poignant reminiscence brings a mix of peace and melancholy whenever I return.
Greeting the day! There's nothing quite like that first cup of coffee overlooking a lake at sunrise.
Where to first?
Due to its breathtaking natural beauty, abundant birds, wildflowers, and tiger beetles, our first day trip was a return to Seagull Bar State Natural Area. The beach was absolutely teeming with tiger beetles, including at least three species: Bronzed, Hairy-necked, and Twelve-spotted.
Along the shore and shallows you’ll find a variety of driftwood branches, limbs, and trees—this one looks like the skeletal remains of a plesiosaur of sorts.
On the long sandy spit at Seagull Bar, where the land stretches gently into the embrace of Lake Michigan, the world finds its quiet rhythm. Here, the sands whisper underfoot, and the waves murmur secrets to the shore. The light dances across the surface, painting gold on the waves and blesses the beach with a timeless grace. A variety of shorebirds (some FOYs) were foraging at the very end of the spit but flew off when we got too close. They didn’t go far, though—their calls mingling with the sigh of the breeze as they regrouped across the channel.
And this is where the tiger beetles are ...
Note the diffuse to almost non-existent maculations—it's likely the state endangered subspecies of Hairy-necked Tiger Beetle Cicindela hirticollis rhodensis. They are not genetically distinct from the nominate species, though, but still cool to find.
Here's an archetypical nominate form of Cicindela hirticollis hirticollis ...
And the target species for the outing, Twelve-spotted Tiger Beetle ...
With more time and a systematic search, I managed to pinpoint ideal habitat for this species on the bar. In contrast to last year when I observed just one, this time I found more than a dozen along the western edge of the spit, where the vegetation was fairly dense. While I consider Hairy-necked Tiger Beetles to be one of the most challenging to photograph, the Twelve-spotteds put my patience to the test—it took almost two hours to get quality portraits suitable to share.
The definitive front-angled view ...
Some Twelve-spotteds have more complete maculations than others. Note the complete "C" shaped front maculation of the one above compared to this one:
Their broken maculations are what renders an appearance of spots, but its overall pattern is very similar in basic form that many other tiger beetle species share.
Though tiger beetles were the main focus of the day trip to Seagull Bar SNA, I always stop to photograph wildflowers whenever they're right under my nose. There was Sneezeweed, Beach Pea, and Silverweed.
I do so enjoy the serenity of a deserted beach. Visiting places in Wisconsin with fewer people offers a more personal and serene experience than traveling to crowded, far-off tourist destinations. These places often remain untouched by mass tourism, allowing for quiet exploration and uninterrupted enjoyment of wildlife and scenery. Without the hustle of large crowds, one can savor moments of reflection and solitude while engaging more deeply with the surroundings. Additionally, local trips are more sustainable, reducing travel time and environmental impact while supporting nearby communities and their efforts to preserve these hidden gems.
We stopped at McCaslin Brook one morning to check for warblers, and there were plenty. In a departure from Latinizing their names, there were Golden-winged, Cape May, Black-and-white, Black-throated Green, Chestnut-sided, Blackburnian, Tennessee, and many others. And yes, there were Ruffed Grouse, so truth in advertising.
Calm and soothing, the only sound being various songbird contact calls.
We decided to check out a few of the waterfalls in the vicinity. Long Slide is one of the most picturesque waterfalls in Marinette County, situated in the northwestern part of the county near the town of Pembine. The falls are part of the Pemebonwon River and the name comes from the waterfall's distinctive, sloping rock formation, which allows water to cascade down in a long, sliding fashion.
At the base of the falls, the air was cool and damp. Though not massive, the waterfalls still thunder with impressive force. Long Slide Falls is around 50 feet tall and is a popular destination for hikers, nature lovers, and photographers due to its beautiful surroundings. The area is relatively easy to access, with a short hike from the parking area to the falls. The site is surrounded by lush forests, making it an ideal spot for a peaceful retreat.
Great Blue Lobelia was common along the river ...
Next up, Dave's Falls!
As the memorial stone notes, the falls are named after Dave Frechette, who tragically lost his life in an accident while maintaining the area around the falls. His untimely death adds an extra layer of significance to the site, reminding visitors of his commitment to preserving the natural beauty of the falls and the surrounding landscape ... and being careful.
The scenic beauty embodies the quintessential charm of northern Wisconsin. ...
Call me a wildflower nerd, but I was thrilled to find Grass of Parnassus at Dave's Falls. This isn't the threatened or endangered species, but the more common Parnassia glauca. Still, I seldom see it and I think the last time I encountered it was in Door County several years ago.
We hiked the entire trail system at Dave's Falls and found a variety of other wildflowers. Above, White Rattlesnake-foot Prenanthes alba, and below is Bottle Gentian Gentiana andrewsii.
On our way back to the cabin, we made quick stop to checkout Cathedral Pines State Natural Area. A shorter hike, it also held a nice assortment of wood warblers. This natural area showcases one of the finest old-growth pine-hemlock forests in the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest that escaped logging in the 1900s. I was captivated by its impressive undergrowth of ferns, club mosses, partridgeberry, beech drops, sedges, and various tree seedlings.
And mushrooms!
We're planning on taking a shorter trip back to Paya Lake in a few weeks go see the fall colors. I think it'll be pretty close to peak, but it can be challenging to hit it just right. In my mind's eye as a photographer, I can already revisit some of the places adorned in yellows, oranges, and reds. We'll skip the beach and focus more so on the forests and waterfalls.
All images © 2024 Mike McDowell